5/10 Charline Pichon: Precision in the Service of Terroir

THE VINEYARD AND THE CLIMATE CHALLENGE

What is the sommelier’s role in the face of the climate upheaval transforming vineyards?

Our role, above all, is to reassure, explain and showcase — without ever alarming or politicising. Climate change is a reality that winegrowers live with every day, with considerable constraints. Our mission on the restaurant floor is to turn this imposed change into a positive experience for the guest.

In practice, that means talking about evolution, adaptation and new balances — not catastrophe. Showing continuity, even amid change. Connecting what the winegrower experiences in the vineyard with what the guest has in their glass, turning the climate challenge into a gastronomic asset. A wine with different balances is also a new story to tell. And that’s where the sommelier becomes invaluable: they provide a clear, accessible explanation without weighing down the conversation, and they make the guest an active participant in the discovery rather than a mere spectator.

This work of showcasing also goes through the winegrower themselves. Behind every bottle, there is a man or a woman who is adapting, experimenting and making brave choices. Climate change then becomes a human story — and human stories are what guests remember.

And on the producers’ side, what role can the sommelier play?

With producers, our role is that of a mediator between the reality of the vineyard and the expectations of the market. It’s a valuable link, often underestimated. We are the first to hear what guests like, what they’re looking for, what surprises or disappoints them — and that information is valuable to the winegrower.

But it goes beyond simply passing on feedback. We can take part in technical tastings, give our opinion on winemaking trials, and encourage choices that preserve freshness in the face of warming — earlier harvests, different ageing methods. We can also encourage grape diversity and resilient practices. It’s not our role to decide for the winegrower, but we can build a relationship of trust and transparency with them that benefits both sides. Being their voice with the guest is also a way of helping them.

CHANGING CONSUMPTION: LESS BUT BETTER?

Is the rise of no-low drinks a lasting trend or a passing one?

Personally, I hope it will remain a passing trend — I won’t hide that from you. But all the recent data show massive, lasting, global growth. The figures speak for themselves. And as a professional, I can’t pretend not to see them.

My conviction is that this trend will become an essential pillar of tomorrow’s drinks lists. We have to meet the demand — especially as these products are now available everywhere: supermarkets, wine shops, cocktail bars, restaurants. Guests who come to us already have their references and habits. If we don’t offer anything serious in this area, we miss out.

What this means in practice for us is a great deal of groundwork: selecting quality dealcoholised cuvées, understanding their aromatic profiles — which are truly different from those of wine — integrating them into tasting menus, and developing new food and drink pairings. We need to learn about the different dealcoholisation techniques so we can talk about them knowledgeably. And beyond dealcoholised wine, diversify into infusions, crafted teas and quality juices — all additional sales that make sense within a coherent list.

THE APPEAL OF THE PROFESSION

What is holding back new talent in sommellerie today, and how can it be addressed?

The number one thing to change is working hours. A stable schedule and adjusted hours — that’s the basic condition for making the job sustainable in the long term and attracting profiles who are currently turning to other sectors. Without that, everything else is of little use.

Next comes the question of pay. Restaurateurs need to raise salaries — and not just base pay. Bonuses, concrete benefits such as a company car or a phone plan, small gestures that show you matter to the business. It sounds basic, but it still varies hugely from one house to another.

But what really makes the difference day to day is management. Recognition happens every day — not once a year at an appraisal. Involving teams in certain decisions and communicating regularly so that everyone feels heard and listened to: that’s what creates attachment to a house. And talking about prospects: training, career development, internal promotion. People need to know where they’re heading.

Finally, well-being at work. A good atmosphere, genuine team cohesion, more regular breaks to reduce fatigue, rituals or activities that strengthen the team. It’s not a luxury — it’s what makes people stay, commit and give their best during service.

A word for those still hesitating to go into sommellerie?

Sommellerie is an incomparable profession — for its endless knowledge, for the extraordinary encounters it makes possible all over the world, for the constant evolution of wine and the way climate change itself becomes a source of renewal. It’s a profession that lets you inspire dreams, tell stories and pass things on. Few professions offer so much.

It demands great flexibility, it’s true — the world is changing fast and our role is changing with it. But for those who love sharing, learning and inspiring wonder, it’s a profession like no other. Go for it.